Mini Succulent Plant Pot Cover
Generated by YarnCro

Mini Succulent Plant Pot Cover

by Tamanna Kalirawna·August 22, 2026·crochet
Math-verified

Mini Succulent Plant Pot Cover

A quick and easy pattern to create charming, textured covers for mini succulent pots, perfect for home decor or gifting.


📦 Materials

  • Yarn: Worsted Weight (Category 4), approximately 30-40 yards (27-37 meters) per cover. Suggested fiber: Cotton or Cotton Blend for structure and easy care.

  • Hook: 4.0 mm (US G/6)

  • Notions: Stitch marker, yarn needle, scissors

  • Gauge: 18 single crochet stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet (worked in the round)

  • Finished Size: Approximately 2.5 inches (6.5 cm) tall, fits a standard 2-inch (5 cm) diameter mini succulent pot.


📖 Abbreviations

  • ch = chain
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc = single crochet
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • inc = increase (2 sc in one stitch)
  • BLO = back loop only
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • FO = fasten off

📝 Special Stitches

This pattern uses standard stitches only.


🪡 Pattern Instructions

Foundation

The pot cover is worked in continuous rounds from the base up. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the first stitch of each round.

Base (Worked in continuous rounds)

  1. Magic Ring: Create a magic ring. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch). Work 6 sc into the magic ring. Pull ring tight. (6 sc) Biomechanical Reason: A magic ring creates a tight, gap-free center, essential for the structural integrity of the base, preventing the pot from falling through. A starting chain joined with a slip stitch would leave a more visible hole.

  2. Inc in each st around. (12 sc) Biomechanical Reason: By placing two stitches into each stitch of the previous round, the circumference of the fabric is expanded uniformly, maintaining a flat disc shape. This is crucial for the base of the pot cover.

  3. [Sc in next st, inc in next st] 6 times. (18 sc)

  4. Sc in next st, inc in next st, [sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st] 5 times, sc in next st. (24 sc) Biomechanical Reason: Staggering the increases (not placing them directly above increases from the previous round) prevents the formation of distinct "corners" and ensures a more perfectly circular base. If increases were stacked, the base would become hexagonal.

  5. [Sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st] 6 times. (30 sc)

  6. Sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st, [sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st] 5 times, sc in next 2 sts. (36 sc)

  7. [Sc in next 5 sts, inc in next st] 6 times. (42 sc) Biomechanical Reason: For single crochet, the general rule for a flat circle is to increase by 6 stitches per round. Each increase expands the circumference, allowing the disc to lay flat. The number of non-increased stitches between increases grows by one each round (0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 in this sequence), maintaining the correct rate of expansion.

Sides (Worked in continuous rounds)

  1. Sc in BLO in each st around. (42 sc) Biomechanical Reason: Working into the back loop only creates a defined ridge on the outside of the fabric where the unworked front loops sit. This ridge serves as the sharp transition point between the flat base and the vertical sides of the pot cover, ensuring a crisp corner. Without this, the transition would be gradual and rounded.

  2. Sc in each st around. (42 sc)

  3. Sc in each st around. (42 sc)

  4. Sc in each st around. (42 sc)

  5. Sc in each st around. (42 sc)

  6. Sc in each st around. (42 sc)

  7. Sc in each st around. (42 sc)

  8. Sl st in the next st to finish the round. (42 sts) Biomechanical Reason: Working the sides in continuous single crochet rounds, without further increases or decreases, creates a cylindrical shape. Each stitch sits directly on top of the previous round's stitch, pulling the fabric upwards and maintaining a consistent diameter.

Top Border (Worked in rows to create a folded rim)

  1. Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (42 sc) Biomechanical Reason: Turning and working in rows for the border creates a separate flap that will fold over the pot rim. This technique allows for a clean, finished edge to be added without altering the main body's stitch structure.

  2. Ch 1, turn. [Hdc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sl st in next st] repeat 10 times, hdc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sl st in last st. (42 sts) Biomechanical Reason: This sequence of hdc, dc, hdc, sl st creates a scallop or shell pattern. The taller dc stitch forms the peak, flanked by the hdc stitches, and the sl st pulls the pattern down, creating the characteristic wave. This decorative edge provides visual interest and a finished look to the top of the cover.

Finishing

Cut yarn, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. FO. Weave in all ends securely using a yarn needle. Fit the cover over your mini succulent pot, folding the decorative border over the rim of the pot.


💡 Pro Tips

  1. Tension Consistency: Maintain even tension, especially in the base, to ensure a flat disc and prevent unwanted cupping or ruffling. If your base starts to cup, you may be crocheting too tightly or need more increases; if it ruffles, you may be too loose or have too many increases.
  2. Yarn Choice: Cotton yarn is recommended for its durability, washability, and ability to hold shape well. Unlike wool, it won't felt if it gets wet, which is advantageous for a plant pot cover.
  3. Adjusting for Pot Size: To adjust the height, simply add or subtract plain sc rounds in the 'Sides' section (Rounds 9-14). To adjust the diameter, add or subtract increase rounds in the 'Base' section, always following the flat circle increase rule (e.g., for SC, increase by 6 stitches per round, staggering the increases).

Pattern by YarnCro · yarncro.com

Make your own custom crochet pattern

Describe what you want to make — YarnCro writes the full pattern and checks every stitch count.